The collateral exhibition “Masculine Jewelry: from 18th-century splendor to gender-fluid glamour,” curated by Mara Cappelletti, explores the timeless role of jewelry in human history, from the 18th century to the contemporary era, investigating the evolution and revolution of men’s accessories.

Ornaments not only adorn the body but also communicate status, culture, and protection. Originally, masculine jewelry represented power and social identity, as well as offering magical protection. Over the centuries, forms and materials have evolved: from 18th-century luxury to the sober styles of the 19th century, from Belle Époque elegance to Art Deco charm. During wars, jewelry expressed feelings of peace
and remembrance. In the following years, from the 1950s to the hip-hop culture of the 1980s and 1990s, jewelry reflected emerging trends and subcultures. In the new millennium, gender fluidity has made jewelry unisex, celebrating individuality over conventional gender roles.

The exhibition, through over a hundred historical specimens and contemporary works, provides an overview of the evolution of masculine jewelry, demonstrating that ornamentation knows no gender boundaries but rather reflects the personality of the wearer.

Spillini da cravatta. Italia, 1935-1940 circa. Oro bianco e diamanti, oro giallo rubino e diamanti, oro bianco e perla. Collezione privata Cusi, Milano.

Spille in titanio, diamanti e crisoprasio. Margherita Burgener, Valenza.

Anello inciso con stemma, oro, metà Ottocento, Collezione privata Demaldè, Milano.

Collana di perle giapponesi Akoya. Dario Mambretti, Milano, 2023. Diamante old cut, filo in seta nera.